Koshy's
The
Pride of Bangalore on St. Mark's Road
A
few dining places have stood the march of time, where the old
and the brash new Gen X strike a perfect harmony as they gossip
or catch up with the latest happenings over a cuppa.
At Koshys the roll call of honour have seen the likes of
great Indian Presidents, Prime ministers, and chief ministers
besides catering to ceremonies held in honour of visiting Marshal
Tito, Nikita Khrushchev, HH Queen Elizabeth II and to the cast
of 20h century Fox filming unit to name a few. The old world charm
of the wood panels, sturdy chairs, line drawings of Bangalore
of yore blends unobtrusively with the zany granite pillars and
colourful table cloths. Started in the 1940 as a bakery outlet
it gave place in 1952-53, to the Parade Café, where seasoned
and budding politicians, journalists, professors, lawyers, business
men, romancing couples holding hands had their snacks and Koffee/Tea,
lunch or dinner. News gains momentum here and at times many a
important decisions are made here. 50 years of glorious service
and the patronage doesnt seem to be waning as the AC Jewel
Box restaurant was added 6 years ago thereby segregating those
who have a fondness for their tobacco from those who do not. This
is still a rendezvous for stolen moments, nostalgic recalls, conferences,
not forgetting the tourists. Whenever in the vicinity Id
dash here for the bread toast with scrambled eggs and the ubiquitous
Koffee to revive my spirits though the Vegetable biryani is a
big disappointment.
There is a
dance floor which probably is used at the time of X mas and for
heralding the New Year. The adjoining department store stocks
all organic products and their oven fresh bakery products are
readily grabbed by the diners as is their vitamin enriched bread
that still retains the flavour of the English tradition of bread
making.
We are charmed
by Mr.Prem Koshy, the third generation restaurateur. Very articulate,
his stints abroad have helped in bringing the freshness and innovativeness
of the new generation in management and working on the goodwill
of the earlier generations ensuring that Koshys is a happening
place. He leads us to the table in style and the best of the Koshy
fare is ordered. Leaving us to relish the Fruit Punch, Prem makes
his way to the kitchen, maybe to give that final touch to one
or two dishes. As we sip, we are enchanted with the amalgamated
fruity richness of a variety of seasonal fruits. In a long stemmed
glass the pink rusty coloured punch was perfect for a hot afternoon
though we were ensconced in cool confines.
He
tells us to try the combo of rice and dhal with stir fried kerala
style aloo Gobi. Each vegetable was juicy and well cooked though
the gleaming oil was the handiwork of Prem to give a whacky taste
to compensate for the plain dhal when he dashed into the kitchen.
This simple fare brought memories of mums swadist food.
The separated rice grains had gracefully lengthened to their maximum
and jelled with the dhal effortlessly. The spinach bake was scrumptious.
It takes a lot of guts to make the bake with greens as it has
to be properly cleaned. The white sauce and cheese were in the
right proportion. The bake should have been given an exotic name.
(Nature peep bake-Howazzat?).After a long time I enjoyed the Avial
in Malabar style as the Mangalore version has dollops of coconut
oil. There was no generosity of coconut masala too. The Pork Fry
cooked the Malabar way was a nice dry preparation that was a fitting
accompaniment to the rice and dhal. Some like it hard but the
soft concoction was done well.
The
Fish Fry was a lovely fillet of fresh
sear fish; well marinated with no overbearing masalas.The tandoori
chicken kebabs were juicy chunks and the chicken pilaf was good.
Rounding this well thought meal was the chocolate mousse. Wickedly
inviting the dark brown and light dessert was the signature item
to the Koshys food and hospitality. I am taken aback when
Prem tells me that around 891 dishes come out from their kitchen
and the dishes have evolved in response to customers preference.
A meal for two without drinks hardly costs Rs 300/=.
With pride
Prem shows us their visitors/guest book maintained since 1963,
and notings of Maharani Gayatri Devi, Arundhati Roy, Tim Sebastian,
Prannoy Roy, Anju Bobby George, Anita Paff, the grand daughter
of Subhas Chandra Bose etc boldly stare at me.
A sonnet by
one Vijay Sai scrawled on 21.06.06 echoes the essence of Koshys.
Fish and Chips
it reads outside
Chips
and fish you savour by the tide
Beer and beef
could make a complete meal
Pork and smiles
would add to the deal
An aid
that helps track the history of food
In a city
that boasts of culture old and new
When your
senses urge for that cup of tea
Turn around
the corner youll find KOSHYS
(With support
from Sunil Baindoor)
If
you have visited Koshy's recently and would like to comment on
its quality of food or anything about the restaurant, please rate
this restaurant
here
Priya
writes - This is an old no-frills place whcih serves fantastic
food. There is the smoke filled older side and the newer AC side(which
is always empty). I always go to the older side since that reminds
of the true Bangalore I had left many years ago.
Their Sunday Appams and Stew combo are one of the best I have
ever had. The omelette/Toast/Sausages are pretty good. Coffee
is to die for. Prem Koshy is also a fellow Texan and was nice
enough to send for a snack for my little one while we were waiting
for our order. Their Kheema curry Rice is also good. A lot of
their food reminds me of home cooking.
Even their baked goods like their whole-wheat bread, plum cake,
sweet and salt biscuits are good.
Koshy\'s is quintessential Bangalore and I would go back again
and again provided their quality doesnt change!